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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.