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Jack Martin

Hair Color Expert based in California who specialises in platinum tones. His clients include Jane Fonda and well-known figures.

Which budget-friendly product is a must-have?

I swear by a gentle drying cloth, or even a smooth cotton shirt to towel-dry your locks. Most people don’t realise how much harm a regular bath towel can do, especially to lightened or dyed strands. This one small change can really minimize flyaways and damage. A second budget-friendly essential is a wide-tooth comb, to use while conditioning. It safeguards your strands while smoothing out tangles and helps preserve the strength of the hair shafts, especially after lightening.

What item or service justifies the extra cost?

A top-tier thermal appliance – ceramic or tourmaline, with adjustable temperature options. Silver and light-coloured hair can yellow or burn easily without the correct device.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

DIY bleaching. Internet videos often simplify it, but the actual fact is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients cause irreversible harm, experience breakage or end up with striped effects that are incredibly challenging to remedy. I would also avoid keratin or permanent straightening treatments on bleached or silver hair. Such treatments are often excessively strong for already fragile strands and can cause chronic issues or undesired tones.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Individuals choosing unsuitable formulas for their hair type or colour. Certain clients overapply violet-based cleansers until their lightened locks looks flat and dull. Some depend excessively on protein-rich treatments and end up with unmanageable, weak locks. Another significant problem is using hot tools sans safeguard. In cases where you employ styling appliances without a heat protectant, – particularly on bleached locks – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

Which solutions help with shedding?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I often suggest follicle treatments containing stimulants to stimulate circulation and promote root strength. Using a scalp detox shampoo weekly helps remove residue and allows treatments to work more effectively. Supplements such as Nutrafol or Viviscal Pro have also shown notable improvements. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by balancing body chemistry, tension and nutritional deficiencies.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, platelet-rich plasma treatments – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be beneficial. However, I consistently recommend getting a professional diagnosis beforehand. Hair loss is often tied to underlying health issues, and it’s important to identify the source rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

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A Trichology Expert

Follicle Expert and brand president of Philip Kingsley services and items for shedding.

How often do you get your hair cut and coloured?

My trims are every couple of months, but will remove split ends personally every two weeks to maintain tip integrity, and have highlights done every eight weeks.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Toppik hair fibres are absolutely amazing if you have thinning spots. These particles bond to your existing hair, and it comes in a assortment of tones, making it seamlessly blended. It was my go-to post-pregnancy when I had significant shedding – and also now while experiencing some significant shedding after having a severe illness recently. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your diet is lacking, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

In cases of hereditary hair loss in females, I’d say prescription hair-loss topicals. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the best results. In my opinion, minoxidil compounded with other hair-supportive actives – such as hormones, anti-androgens and/or anti-inflammatories – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Using rosemary essential oil for thinning. It shows no real benefit. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of 2% minoxidil to rosemary oil. A low concentration like 2% is insufficient to do much for hereditary thinning in males, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Additionally, excessive biotin. Rarely do people lack biotin, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can affect thyroid test results.

What’s the most common mistake you see?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the primary purpose of washing is to rid your scalp of old oils, dead skin cells, sweat and environmental pollution. I see people avoiding shampooing as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the opposite is true – notably in cases of dandruff, which is aggravated by oil buildup. If oils are left on your scalp, they break down and become inflammatory.

Unfortunately, what your scalp needs and what your hair likes don’t always align, so it’s a delicate equilibrium. But as long as you are gentle when you shampoo and handle wet hair with care, it shouldn't harm your hair.

Which options help with shedding?

For FPHL, your core treatment should be minoxidil. Scientific support is substantial and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. Should you wish to enhance minoxidil's benefits, or you choose to avoid it or cannot tolerate it, you could try micro-needling (under professional care), and perhaps platelet-rich plasma or light treatments.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. Sometimes, the cause is transient – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will resolve on its own. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the most common being ferritin (stored iron), vitamin B12 and vitamin D deficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus